Showing posts with label taste. Show all posts
Showing posts with label taste. Show all posts

Tuesday, January 22, 2013

Cow vs Goat!

Ever walk into a petting zoo and swallow a mouthful of fumes before you were able to temper your breathing to avoid such travesty? It's that pungent, earthy flavor that kinda makes you think of what a bowl of animals' dwelling would taste like in an episode of Fear Factor. Well, that's akin to the experience of goat cheese, for some!
Goat's milk cheese, in my humble opinion, is one of those things that you either like or....completely abhor. For most, the taste, in fact, is something to be reconciled rather than loved.
But in all fairness to the sacred goat, his milk and cheese offerings, there is some amazing varietals on the market that change the minds of even the most discerning critics. I promise.

Listen, I could easily run down a plethora of reasons to opt for goat cheese:
Like for instance, it's lower in fat and calories yet higher in calcium and protein, it's good for your brain and supposedly metabolism boosting. And while some of us may be a slight adverse to regular dairy cheese (ahem,...lactose intolerant), goat cheese is far easier to digest.

But when all is said and done, with as many cheese options, one could easily navigate the avoidance of any goats milk derivative.
The bottom line is here: Like wine, cheeses have very distinct personalities. It is very specific to the consumer and often aligned with ones cultural identity. Cheese, for one who appreciates it beyond that interesting slice of orange accompaniment to bologna,... is an indulgence. And like wine, you sniff, sample and indulge in the one best suited for your palate. What greater joy than to walk into The Cheese Store of Beverly Hills and have my senses completely assaulted....with options!


But for you, for your own reasons like myself, that may sometimes opt for that rudimentary "outdoor" flavor of goat cheese, here are a few ways to tackle it:

* offset the earthy taste, when added to salads, with dried cranberries. Trader Joe's has an amazing citrus flavored cranberry that pair well with even the most pungent of goat cheese

*Inquire! Some goat cheese varietals are milder than others and rival some of the best dairy products.

*For a healthier version of a great familiar: crumble goat cheese over sliced tomato and basil. Drizzle with flavored olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Add fresh cracked pepper and enjoy.

*Goat cheese crumble is a creamy alternative to garnish winter soups. Add some to a creamy split pea, pumpkin or tomato soup.

-EAT WELL

Monday, January 14, 2013

The Challenge to be Better.


Every Chef gets the question at least once,…a month: What’s your favorite thing to cook? To the day, I’m always at a loss for words. Though I brandish my most diplomatic face and go into some suedo intellectual rant about not being pigeonholed, exploration, blah, blah, blah, beneath the veneer burns a few reciprocal questions: Would you dare ask a painter of his favorite one picture to paint? Or an architect his favorite one building to manifest. You see, while the technique is almost always applicable, the joy with any great artist is in rediscovering and challenging one’s ability to the beyond. But to earnestly answer the question, my favorite thing to cook, is food.

Sometimes something enters your life so profoundly and changes you forever: a child, a pet, a great bottle of wine. For me, it was the moment I realized the endless possibilities of food. Not only is it the skilled choreography that is bringing a culinary idea to life. Nor is it simply the melding of spices, products and protein to become a masterpiece of consumption. But too, it’s the universal ability that food has in bringing people together to love, express, share ideas, laugh and well, just be.

For the concept alone, I’ve navigated my way through Philadelphia’s 9th Street Italian Market, hurried shoppers bumping against me, us all in search of finest sea bass or scallops, salmon, duck or tuna. Years later, it was New York’s Chinatown that captivated me with it’s activity of fish sailing through the air (tossed by the markets men), buyers, barterers and early morning onlookers. Today, that very concept, even greater it’s lure and is akin to a melody wafting from a magic pipe, beckoning, imploring me to meticulously scour row upon row of the freshest produce at Los Angeles’ farmer’s markets.

And as I look beyond the movement of people, in search of exotic fruits, fine vegetables, pea tendrils and the like, there’s something else there that I keep an eye peeled for: inspiration!

I palm and smell the fruit, begging it to reveal to me what it would like to be- come. Or while bagging the sexiest of all of the chanterelles, I consider them at their finest hour, all dressed up in demi glace. And
with the same level of passion and angst I think about my diners and what it is I desire their experience to be. Before it happens, I imagine the emo- tion and, if all goes accordingly, the joy of each morsel— each well planned bite.

It goes without saying that one of favorite things about cooking is the crea- tivity. I love everything about it: the thoughtfulness and consideration, the inspiration, the ingredients and the smell of the menu coming together. But one aspect of this process that sometimes moves me to emotion is the chal- lenge to be better than the last dish.

Long before this became my thing or a career, I'd subscribed to the belief that your presentation should be the voice when there are no words. There’s such magnificence and care that’s shared when you’ve taken a specific amount of effort to pull something together. Whether it’s an extra arch of a brow, matching lingerie for the significant other, the perfect shade of red lipstick or a heel just high enough that he notices your sexy but still feels empowered to guide. For me, this attention to detail is found in the flavor and presentation of food: A grand symphony of piquancy placed with the deft hand of an art- ist. I would hope, that for whomever encounters my food or dines with me at a dinner party, you get the undeniable sense that this attention to detail means, in all of it’s simplicity, I care deeply about your ex- perience: and thus, about you.

It is there that I find the best me. In that place of thinking in fast forward about being better than the last time and always putting the client, the guest, my family and friends first, I find the best part of myself being claimed and shared. In that place of forward thinking, beyond what we are right now, I believe that we can all put forth our best selves. Because when all is said and done, what’s there on the plate, on that day, is the best that I’ve got!

Tuesday, December 18, 2012

What the EFF is This?!!!!

Ever wonder why chefs have a universal reputation for being intense and obnoxious..... ahem...professionals? Well, one could attribute it to arrogance, as some of the more popular food shows have pulled back the curtain on a "hidden" sector of artists who spend countless hours and dollars perfecting their craft. You might also attribute it to the industry itself, as it has become a saturated market of great talent and wannabes alike and thus is extremely competitive and equally as stressful.
But for the sake of argument and perhaps having a slight bias on the topic, my take on it is a slight different. We've perhaps developed an aptitude to yell, curse like sailors and on occasion throw a pan or two across a crowded kitchen because, well....we care.
Wait! Hear me out. It's true. Not only do we care about being/staying relevant, or the adrenal rush associated with the competitive nature of this saturated industry... But moreover, we care about the product we put out and the people that eat it. A great chef will painstakingly seek the finest purveyors for produce and protein. We carefully design recipes with consideration of seasonal fare and of course, the consumer. Hours on end are spent on menu design for the greatest in flavor and wine pairings. Suffice it to say,....it's serious business for us.
So when my list requested 1 quart of whipping cream and organic chicken stock (I'd just run out of the good stuff) and he returned with a red can of whipped (?) and jar of bullion cubes, well yes,...my question, inexplicably, was ..."What the Eff is This?!!!".
Here's the thing. Short cuts are no friend to a great chef. And what I want you, the reader, to embrace, is that a short cut is neither a friend to you.
Indeed, the food industry has sold us on a microwavable lifestyle fixed on instant gratification. Fully cooked and ready in five minutes have become a part of the American lexicon. And while I understand whole heartedly the plight of the single mom or bachelor, my ultimate intent is that you eat well. Indeed, I'll share secrets of quick preparation and one pot wonders. Or even ways to prep for an entire weeks worth of menu. But some things!....some things deserve that extra attention to detail annnnd,...probably should never be compromised!

For example:
Making chicken stock is always my first choice. It's super easy and you can make a huge batch and freeze it. In most places, your local market will give or sell you chicken, beef or veal bones (see recipe below). Not only are you getting the maximum flavor by cooking down the bones but you also get to season and flavor accordingly with each use. Listen.....the first ingredient in bullion...is SALT!
It's then followed up by a rambling list of ingredients. Some unrecognizable. Chicken stock, my friend, has very simple ingredients: bones, carrot, onion, celery fresh herbs and water. Do yourself a favor: make your own stock...or buy it. But avoid bullion cubes.

And about that air filled whipped stuff in the red can: Fresh whipped cream is so easy to make. It consists of three ingredients to which you have creative autonomy to add on and improvise - whipping cream, sugar and effort. You can infuse lemon or other extracts, fresh vanilla bean and flavoredliquors for added panache.
Can anyone tell me what's in that red can anyway?!

The truth is that many short cuts are just not worth it. And frankly, they keep you from shining! Your guests, significant other or family would be thoroughly impressed by a grand mariner flavored whipped cream atop that famous pound cake or pie of yours.

Here are a few other things that are worth going au natural:

Lemons vs. Lemon Juice:
Taste a natural lemon. Now suck down a swig of that other stuff. No comparison! Lemons have so many great uses. Add a squeeze to practically any dish and watch what happens. Fresh lemon is great for sauces, dressings, fresh lemonade, marinades and much more.

Fresh herbs vs. Dried:
While some dried herbs are great to have around (oregano/basil), there's nothing like the real deal. To cut cost, as they tend to be ridiculously expensive in the super markets, purchase from your local farmers market. I get 3 times as much for 1/2 the price.

Garlic vs. Garlic Powder:
Simple. Garlic is garlic! There's no substituting it. Garlic powder is used, in my professional experience, to merely enhance the flavor of the real deal. Garlic also works wonders for a winter cold, as it is a natural antibiotic. Steep it in water. Add lemon (real lemon) and a touch of honey. Drink it like tea ( I even eat the cloves). Just don't breath on anyone. Bet you can't cure a cold with garlic powder and bottled lemon juice.

Roué vs. Slurry:
Perhaps words you're unfamiliar with but the technique, I'm sure you've practiced (as was the case for me prior to culinary teachings). A traditional roué begins with 1 part fat (butter, oil, duck fat, bacon fat etc.) to 1 part flour. This combo is used as a base for gumbo, to thicken stews (étouffée, chicken/beef stew), pot pies, soups, gravies or even Mac & Cheese. It's cooked together until a nutty flavor is developed. This increases the taste of the dish in question. Conversely, a slurry (cold water & flour) can hastily be added to the same dishes to thicken. The difference is a pasty taste to the end product that often is masked with extra salt and seasoning. Go with the former.

Recipe: Chicken Stock
2 part onion + 1 part celery + 1 part carrot
Chicken bones
1/2 Garlic bulb
Pepper corns
Bay leaf
Parsley
Thyme
2 gallons of water

In a large stock pot, lightly sauté vegetables. Add bones. Toast lightly to extract flavor. Add herbs and water. Bring to a boil until bubbles are visible. Then bring to a simmer.
Cook for 8 - 12 hours and skim off any white scum throughout. Add water as needed.
Strain with a fine mesh strainer. Cool in an ice bath in the sink. Store in freezer for up to 3 months. Refrigerates for 2-3 days.

-EAT WELL

Friday, December 7, 2012

Permission to be Free!

FOOD TRUTH: My mother was my first Chef Instructor. No, she wasn't a professional in the culinary industry. But those many years ago, she taught me invaluable lessons that Le Cordon Bleu would later reiterate.

One such lesson was that if you're using a recipe, let it act as a guide. Ahh! What glorious freedom lies in this understanding.
Certainly!...there's value in recreating grandmas double-dipped buttermilk fried chicken. But on the off chance that there isn't any hot sauce, should I nix the idea? Lesson learned. I have complete autonomy to reinterpret.

I could easily post a single recipe daily. Ultimately, what I would hope to come from your kitchen is a labor of your love. A product of your heart. A masterpiece of your imagination and taste preference. With even the recipes that are posted, the consistent caviat is that one feels free to make adjustments based on your own palate and frankly, what's in your kitchen. While some flavors could potentially clash, you never know....
Cook with heart and a learned sense of fearlessness! It usually turns out just fine.

A few examples:

A good southern classic is Shrimp and Grits. But sometimes I'll add seared scallops. For an impressive romantic brunch, throw in pieces of butter-poached lobster!
Grits are interchangeable as well. Try a creamy cheesy polenta with that shrimp.
Polenta leftovers? I Once braised a bit of short rib and spooned it over polenta. I finished with a red wine reduction. Simple but elegant dinner.

Gno WHO? Gnocchi!
It's great stuff. A combination of pasta and potato. The most common preparation is in a simple tomato based sauce. But why not a garlic cream sauce. Add shrimp or mussels. Or both. Vegetables work well in there too: pearl onions, tomato, mushroom or asparagus.
Or what about a play on steak and potatoes? Sauté cooked gnocchi in browned butter. Serve next to a filet mignon and top with a savory Demi glacé.
Class up a simple slice of cake with Nutella sauce (Nutella & milk whisked together). Add a dash of cayenne pepper for a little zing. Or macerated berries and fresh whipped cream would be great on pound cake.
A few ripening bananas laying around? Slice and cook them down with a vanilla. Add a little bourbon and spicy pecans. That'll teach that plain cake!

Look. While I promise to provide a foundation for some good eats, by all means, feel free to use your imagination! And for goodness sakes,...

-EAT WELL