Tuesday, December 18, 2012

What the EFF is This?!!!!

Ever wonder why chefs have a universal reputation for being intense and obnoxious..... ahem...professionals? Well, one could attribute it to arrogance, as some of the more popular food shows have pulled back the curtain on a "hidden" sector of artists who spend countless hours and dollars perfecting their craft. You might also attribute it to the industry itself, as it has become a saturated market of great talent and wannabes alike and thus is extremely competitive and equally as stressful.
But for the sake of argument and perhaps having a slight bias on the topic, my take on it is a slight different. We've perhaps developed an aptitude to yell, curse like sailors and on occasion throw a pan or two across a crowded kitchen because, well....we care.
Wait! Hear me out. It's true. Not only do we care about being/staying relevant, or the adrenal rush associated with the competitive nature of this saturated industry... But moreover, we care about the product we put out and the people that eat it. A great chef will painstakingly seek the finest purveyors for produce and protein. We carefully design recipes with consideration of seasonal fare and of course, the consumer. Hours on end are spent on menu design for the greatest in flavor and wine pairings. Suffice it to say,....it's serious business for us.
So when my list requested 1 quart of whipping cream and organic chicken stock (I'd just run out of the good stuff) and he returned with a red can of whipped (?) and jar of bullion cubes, well yes,...my question, inexplicably, was ..."What the Eff is This?!!!".
Here's the thing. Short cuts are no friend to a great chef. And what I want you, the reader, to embrace, is that a short cut is neither a friend to you.
Indeed, the food industry has sold us on a microwavable lifestyle fixed on instant gratification. Fully cooked and ready in five minutes have become a part of the American lexicon. And while I understand whole heartedly the plight of the single mom or bachelor, my ultimate intent is that you eat well. Indeed, I'll share secrets of quick preparation and one pot wonders. Or even ways to prep for an entire weeks worth of menu. But some things!....some things deserve that extra attention to detail annnnd,...probably should never be compromised!

For example:
Making chicken stock is always my first choice. It's super easy and you can make a huge batch and freeze it. In most places, your local market will give or sell you chicken, beef or veal bones (see recipe below). Not only are you getting the maximum flavor by cooking down the bones but you also get to season and flavor accordingly with each use. Listen.....the first ingredient in bullion...is SALT!
It's then followed up by a rambling list of ingredients. Some unrecognizable. Chicken stock, my friend, has very simple ingredients: bones, carrot, onion, celery fresh herbs and water. Do yourself a favor: make your own stock...or buy it. But avoid bullion cubes.

And about that air filled whipped stuff in the red can: Fresh whipped cream is so easy to make. It consists of three ingredients to which you have creative autonomy to add on and improvise - whipping cream, sugar and effort. You can infuse lemon or other extracts, fresh vanilla bean and flavoredliquors for added panache.
Can anyone tell me what's in that red can anyway?!

The truth is that many short cuts are just not worth it. And frankly, they keep you from shining! Your guests, significant other or family would be thoroughly impressed by a grand mariner flavored whipped cream atop that famous pound cake or pie of yours.

Here are a few other things that are worth going au natural:

Lemons vs. Lemon Juice:
Taste a natural lemon. Now suck down a swig of that other stuff. No comparison! Lemons have so many great uses. Add a squeeze to practically any dish and watch what happens. Fresh lemon is great for sauces, dressings, fresh lemonade, marinades and much more.

Fresh herbs vs. Dried:
While some dried herbs are great to have around (oregano/basil), there's nothing like the real deal. To cut cost, as they tend to be ridiculously expensive in the super markets, purchase from your local farmers market. I get 3 times as much for 1/2 the price.

Garlic vs. Garlic Powder:
Simple. Garlic is garlic! There's no substituting it. Garlic powder is used, in my professional experience, to merely enhance the flavor of the real deal. Garlic also works wonders for a winter cold, as it is a natural antibiotic. Steep it in water. Add lemon (real lemon) and a touch of honey. Drink it like tea ( I even eat the cloves). Just don't breath on anyone. Bet you can't cure a cold with garlic powder and bottled lemon juice.

Roué vs. Slurry:
Perhaps words you're unfamiliar with but the technique, I'm sure you've practiced (as was the case for me prior to culinary teachings). A traditional roué begins with 1 part fat (butter, oil, duck fat, bacon fat etc.) to 1 part flour. This combo is used as a base for gumbo, to thicken stews (étouffée, chicken/beef stew), pot pies, soups, gravies or even Mac & Cheese. It's cooked together until a nutty flavor is developed. This increases the taste of the dish in question. Conversely, a slurry (cold water & flour) can hastily be added to the same dishes to thicken. The difference is a pasty taste to the end product that often is masked with extra salt and seasoning. Go with the former.

Recipe: Chicken Stock
2 part onion + 1 part celery + 1 part carrot
Chicken bones
1/2 Garlic bulb
Pepper corns
Bay leaf
Parsley
Thyme
2 gallons of water

In a large stock pot, lightly sauté vegetables. Add bones. Toast lightly to extract flavor. Add herbs and water. Bring to a boil until bubbles are visible. Then bring to a simmer.
Cook for 8 - 12 hours and skim off any white scum throughout. Add water as needed.
Strain with a fine mesh strainer. Cool in an ice bath in the sink. Store in freezer for up to 3 months. Refrigerates for 2-3 days.

-EAT WELL

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